Please help!! Where is this tool on Adobe Photoshop and how do i use it?
Many thanks,
poppiI want to print photos that have been cropped using Adobe Photoshop?
It's a sad fact that the aspect ratio (Height to Width ratio) of Film and Digital Sensors compared to paper sizes rarely match, so if you want to fill the printer paper then some cropping is inevitable.
There are numerous ways in Photoshop to set a paper size one is to set it using the crop tool. Another using the Image size dialogue box.
First find out the paper sizes of your printer, whether you print your own (easier) or from a print house.
Then go to File%26gt;Open%26gt;New and in the dialogue box select inches as your units, 8 bit (most printers only print in 8 bit, though some new ones are changing that) and the re-sample box is checked.
Enter your paper size and (and this is where it gets clever) in the resolution box select a resolution that gives you a file size that equals 1Mb per Inch on the longest dimension. Which for an A4 (11.693 X 8.268 inches) a value of 206 pixels per inch would give a file size of 11.7. In the advanced section just make sure the color profile is set to sRGB which should be the default.
Now we have sorted out the resolution, paper size and colour space.
Now to put an image into it. In Bridge Highlight your picture then go to File%26gt;Place%26gt;In Photoshop. Photoshop will place the picture in the centre of your canvas with a bounding box around it and you can see the two sizes don't match. With the Shift Key held down (to maintain the aspect ratio of the image) click and drag on the corner anchor points (little boxes) to fill the canvas with your image in the way you want. To fill the paper some cropping will be inevitable as discussed. You can crop the image at this stage as you can see exactly what will be on the canvas. Clicking in the centre of the bounding box will allow to drag the image to centre it where you want. When your happy just hit Enter to commit the crop.
The advantages of this method haven't finished yet, Photoshop will have opened the Image as a 'Smart Object' which means that at this stage the Image file and Photoshop are still linked, if you need to make adjustments (Levels, Curves etc..) do it now then Photoshop will refer to the original file for any info it requires, so you are working with the maximum data.
By selecting the Move Tool ('V' on your keyboard) you can move the image around on your canvas.
If you need to resize the Image again pressing Ctrl + T will bring back the bounding box.
Double clicking the Zoom Tool (Magnifying Glass) will show you a 100% view so you can see how it will print. Press the Spacebar and Left Click and drag to view around the Image.
When your happy with how it looks go to Layer%26gt;Flatten Image and save either as a Tiff (Lossless) or a Jpg if that's all your Print House will accept. - Job done and you have been in control all the way.
This formula of 1 Mb to 1'; will enable you to print really large prints if you have enough Mp from your camera for example a 6Mp Image will print 4ft X 3ft with good quality.
As a final note your Print House may put a border around each pic if so it's the IMAGE Size will need to be your canvas size.
ChrisI want to print photos that have been cropped using Adobe Photoshop?
on the tool bar at top, click on image, the dialogue box will drop down and you can click on image size (not canvas size) and another dialogue box will pop up and give you the option to save in any size you want.
Very good procedure by screwdriver, but likely what the lab was talking about was the crop to size tool.
When you select the crop tool, look up at the top of the screen and you will see boxes for width and length. You can enter the exact size of the photo you want to print, and the crop will be bound to those width and height dimensions.
steve
just resize based on image, either way a good rule is a 1/4 inch bleed and never go lower than 300dpi.
Open the Photoshop Tools palette Window %26gt; Tools. If you hold the mouse above each tool a text box will reveal its name. The Cropping tool looks like a set of dividers.
On the Cropping Tool Option bar, which now appears immediately under the top menu, fill in the numerical values required for the crop. Be careful to set the values correctly, according to whether you want an upright or landscape image. This requires a method of measurement e.g. pixels per inch (PPI) or pixels per centimetre (PPCM) as well as output dimensions.
Inputting the resolution and size of an image into the top menu control options determines the ‘file size’ (usually denoted in megabytes). The cropped image will gain information (interpolate) or drop resolution as needed.
Check the resolution of your printer in order to insert the correct figure.
Position the tool on the image and drag it to mark out the area to be cropped, if necessary adjust it by pulling the ‘tabs’ on the cropping box, and by rotating or dragging the crop into the position... which will create a ’line of marching ants’ on your image:
Image %26gt; Crop, press Enter (Win) or Return (Mac), double click inside the cropping marquee, or click the commit button in the options bar to perform the crop.
To cancel press Esc or the cancel button in the options bar.
As mentioned under Interpolation, Image %26gt; Image Size via the top Photoshop menu enables you to adjust the resolution of an image without distorting its proportions, but you need to check the Constrain Proportions box is ticked.
The cropping tool settings will also change the format of your image unless the original is exactly the same proportion as the crop you require - on 35mm film you lose a substantial amount from the long side if you crop it to 8x6 format (which is broader).
*** Golden Rule! ***
Work on a copy, not the original file.
Key output stages
Convert the generic image for a particular output (via an output profile) - see Image Management section.
Scale the image for output.
Match the generic image colour by adjusting the RGB file while viewing the image using the output gamut (View %26gt; Proof Colours).
Apply an appropriate level of sharpening.
The following issues are raised by this process...
Size of the image required? e.g. “8x6”
Resolution of the output device? e.g. 300 dpi
Size of paper being used?
Print conversion? – RGB printers assume image conversion will occur within the printing software, i.e. the source files are in RGB (usually sRGB) Other printers require CMYK conversion first. (Most desktop printers are RGB printers - check your model).
The primary issue is to specify exactly the right amount of data.
If we have the image size plus dpi, or a specific number of pixels plus the printer resolution, we have all the information required for in-house printing or for a laboratory.
A lab will probably ask for images sized according to data like this; 8”x6” at 300 dpi, or 4096 x 3072 pixels.
Ideally we can also attach a printer/media profile, if not we need to consider the following factors...
What printer are we sending out to? e.g. Offset litho, inkjet or CLC (Colour Laser Copier), Dye Sublimation or Digital Press etc.
What kind of media is being used? – glossy, matt?
Commercial print implies detailed communication re: dot gain (the media absorbency), dot angle (required for the kind of printer screen being used), GCR (grey component replacement) i.e. removing black ink and replacing it with equal proportions of the other ink colours and UCR (under colour removal) the substitution of equal quantities of coloured inks with black ink. We suggest this is left to the professionals.
ICC Profiles for in-house printers should NEVER be embedded (converted to profile) for images sent to third parties such as repro houses, as they can cause major quality problems. If in doubt send files in Lab or RGB gamut with a Generic working space profile such as Adobe RGB (1998).
The ideal option is to supply your images with the end-user’s printer profile - one for both the printer and media that will be used to perform the final print job... we suggest professional photographers and designers cover their bases by also suupplying an RGB original in an appropriate gamut - so if your end-user objects to your colour separation, they can always have an option to do the separation themselves!
Save the original!
Before you start, copy the image and save it. If something goes wrong you can always start again. If you accidentally crop massive amounts of data from an image, or damage the colour and then save over the original file, you may have to re-scan it, or re-shoot a digital original.
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